The restaurant is the acclaimed chef’s first major restaurant venture in the city and the second Lucky Cat location, following the 2019 opening of its sister in Mayfair.
Despite being a kitten, it didn’t take long for Lucky Cat in London to catch the attention of Michelin, with the esteemed guide previously remarking: “Gordon Ramsay’s foray into Asian culture is a moody, masculine space in the former Maze, with a chef’s table, a striking bar, a banging soundtrack and a fun feel.
“Accomplished Japanese and Chinese dishes blend British ingredients and are designed for sharing; the bonito fried duck leg bao is a must-try.”
Alright, praise from Michelin is good, but what about a man who smoked his last tastebud away in 2020 and thinks pineapple on pizza is a revelation? That’s the true test, Mr Ramsay.
Of course, I joke. Despite being practically destitute 24/7, I’ve always enjoyed the finer things in life. From wine to good food, I can never seem to say no despite my financial woes.
So when that cat came knocking, I welcomed it with open arms.
Myself and my girlfriend made the short trip over to Manchester where little did we know we were in for culinary education.
The site of Lucky Cat in Manchester was last occupied by Jamie Oliver’s Jamie’s Italian and if you don’t know the history between Ramsay and Oliver, you might not grasp how hilarious that is.
It was a towering and impressive structure reminiscent of the New York Chrysler building, only much smaller. 100 King Street, a stunning Grade II-listed building that was originally the Midland Bank.
We were about 15 minutes early – who can blame us – but thought we’d chance it and go in early, licking our lips with anticipation.
It was here where the fine dining began. The most courteous waiter approached us, took our coats and lit that night’s formality candle. He took us to the bar and we marvelled at the inside space.
It appeared to pay homage to the drinking dens of 1930s Tokyo, so, naturally, we obliged. A couple of Natsu’s were recommended by the barman, yuzucello, hibiscus and infused grey goose vodka. I am still clueless as to what any of that was but it was damn good.
For a Friday night, it didn’t seem busy and bustling, but every table was occupied. “Strange”, I thought initially, but then realised it must have been expertly designed this way.
The high ceilings, large arched windows and impressive space set quite the tone: Pure relaxation and privacy.
There was no chance of a man spilling his carvery on you as he juggled both pint and plate to his table, nor was there a possibility of a toddler headbutting you in the knee as he ran from end to end.
Manchester’s only Michelin-star restaurant, Mana, seemed to have a more than worthy competitor poised to challenge for the plaudits.
We were ready.
The head waiter passed us to our server, who was equally warm and welcoming, and we made our way over to our table.
Sitting in the middle of a restaurant is a big pet peeve of mine, I didn’t order a side of paranoia thanks. But this? In the corner and quite dimly lit, totally tranquil.
Then came my highlight of the night, meeting Piotr the in-house sommelier. Wine, in a Michelin-standard restaurant? “Ohhhhh we’ll have a look, course we’ll have a look.”
Ok, some were on the expensive side, but I’m sure you could’ve guessed that. I enquired about the Barolo, but £350 a bottle seemed somewhat steep. No matter, Piotr was there at the rescue, immediately suggesting a much more affordable bottle which had undertones of a Barolo.
“Lucky Cat is more than just a restaurant; it’s an extraordinary encounter. We’re ready to dazzle Manchester’s vibrant culinary scene with a gastronomic spectacle that will leave you craving more!”
A gastronomic spectacle it was.
Our waitress suggested we go for 6 dishes, “treat yourselves”, I recall, so we did.
Whatever we ended up choosing I’m sure would’ve been a ‘treat’, but after some deep thought, we finally ended up with our 6. The sashimi selection, the beef Takaki, spiced lamb cutlets, hand-dived scallops, some strips of tomahawk beef in garlic miso butter and finally a trio of chocolate desserts.
If this restaurant only sold sushi, I’m sure it’d still be up there as one of Manchester’s best restaurants. That to start just blew us away, but more was to come.
The beef Takaki was perfectly portioned and lasted a mere minute on the plate, cooked beautifully and melted in the mouth.
I think my favourite was the scallops, no, the lamb, actually no the tomahawk, infact, it’s impossible to choose. I’m glad about how this building is laid out as this food coerced some questionable noises out of me.
Lastly came the dessert. By this point, I was full to the brim (I think I’d hogged some of the beef), choosing 6 dishes may have been a greedy mistake but when in Rome eh? So I let my girlfriend finish that, “incredible”, she said.
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All in all, the food, wine and restaurant as a whole was something I’ve never experienced before. If this is the closest I get to Michelin star food, then so be it, I’ll die happy.
Manchester is fast becoming the ‘London of the North’ if it’s not already. And while some aren’t that happy about that, you sadly can’t fight change.
This restaurant could arguably be the face of that change.
Don’t get me wrong, it’s an expensive experience, but it lives up to the hype with some spare for dessert. We left feeling two very fat, and lucky, cats.
