Secret Drinker reviews the White Horse pub in Dover

When people raved to me about the White Horse, proclaiming it to be the best pub in town, all I previously thought was “Well, it is Dover, what do you expect?”

But, having heard all the Sunday roast hype and just finished a glorious morning walk around Samphire Hoe, I thought it was high time we visited the town’s oldest pub to see what all the fuss is about.

Sitting right underneath the castle walls, the White Horse on St James Street is renowned as Dover's oldest pub — Sitting right underneath the castle walls, the White Horse on St James Street is renowned as Dover’s oldest pub

Fearing it might be so popular I wouldn’t get a seat without a reservation I was surprised to discover Mrs SD and I were the only people in at 1.15pm, apart that is from a solitary American lady wrapping her lips round a Guinness.

I’d already been bowled over by the neighbour’s place, the remains of what must have been a stunning Norman church, but was equally impressed the second I stepped through the door of this down-to-earth, no-nonsense 14th century alehouse.

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Wooden floorboards, graffitied walls, a dumbwaiter and old brick archways hint at the history, but they also spark the interest and something told me this pub in the shadows of the castle walls was going to be something special.

The Yank had taken a window seat to wait for a friend, so having decided Harvey’s Sussex Best was the choice draught ale and got ‘er indoors a large Pinot Grigio rose we selected a table in the middle of the bar and took in our surroundings.

My pint of Harvey's Sussex Best was a very good example but not particularly cheap at £5.50. Mrs SD's large Pinot Grigio rose was also good and much better value at £7.70 — My pint of Harvey’s Sussex Best was a very good example but not particularly cheap at £5.50. Mrs SD’s large Pinot Grigio rose was also good and much better value at £7.70

An impressive next-door neighbour - the ruins of St James' Church are thought to date back to 1070 and are known locally as Dover's Tidy Ruin — An impressive next-door neighbour – the ruins of St James’ Church are thought to date back to 1070 and are known locally as Dover’s Tidy Ruin

Something a little different from the usual humorous pub message: "When you drank the world was still out there but for the moment it didn't have you by the throat" - Charles Bukowski — Something a little different from the usual humorous pub message: “When you drank the world was still out there but for the moment it didn’t have you by the throat” – Charles Bukowski

Names are scrawled across almost every inch of the ceilings and walls and I was just toying with the idea of adding a ‘Secret Drinker wuz ‘ere’ moniker when, fortunately, I caught on, realising it’s not graffiti but a remarkable homage to committed cross-Channel swimmers.

Peter Bales covered the distance way back in August 1969 and I also spotted the first Iranian woman to complete the swim, as well as hundreds of other intrepid marathon swimmers from every corner of the world who have completed the challenge. On the one hand, it’s a unique montage celebrating achievement over adversity; on the other it saves a fortune on decorating.

Mind you, guest nations do not only feature on the walls, as time wore on the pub filled up quickly with many customers who’d made bookings and a good number more who hadn’t. But, booked or not, what was noticeable was they came from far and wide – as well as the septic tanks, there were Spaniards on an adjoining table, Germans beyond that, Aussies out the back and Brummies far too close for comfort!

There's hardly a square inch of the walls or ceiling not covered in the names of intrepid swimmers who have successfully taken on The Channel — There’s hardly a square inch of the walls or ceiling not covered in the names of intrepid swimmers who have successfully taken on The Channel

These small pots, placed at regular intervals around the bar, contained wonderfully fresh and tasty homemade crackling

Most areas of the pub are set aside for diners and by the time we'd finished eating the vast majority of the tables had been taken — Most areas of the pub are set aside for diners and by the time we’d finished eating the vast majority of the tables had been taken

Seriously, whoever’s pushing the PR for this place is getting the message out far and wide.

So, does it deserve such international recognition? The ding-dong sound from the dumbwaiter signalled the arrival of my roast dinner from the kitchen upstairs and absolutely everything about it was absolutely superb.

Cooked superbly, served at the perfect temperature, with lashings of everything, I confidently predict you will not be served a better roast anywhere. Okay, Mrs SD didn’t take quite as traditional a route for a Sunday but she was equally impressed by the scampi and chips she chose.

So, drink good, food superb, three lovely cheerful blokes behind the bar, background music from Beautiful South and Amy Whitehouse, this is a ridiculously sensible and proper pub. There are no games, no tellies, no pool or darts, no vulgar machines of any sort, just lots of foreigners discovering Dover has more to offer than this visitor ever even dared to consider.

I'd seen such rave reviews for Sunday roasts I felt it was my duty to try one, I wasn't disappointed — I’d seen such rave reviews for Sunday roasts I felt it was my duty to try one, I wasn’t disappointed

My decision to try the roast beef had been taken even before I walked through the door, otherwise I might have been tempted to try the Pie of the Day

Served separately, even the cauliflower cheese was worthy of special mention; it was almost a meal in itself.

Mrs SD was concerned she might not be able to do the roast dinner justice, but she was mightily impressed by the scampi and chips she selected instead

The dumbwaiter thingy even had the sort of reassuring bell that reminded me of when, in a past life, Avon used to call and, despite the masses of multinationals enjoying great food, there was still room for a local on a stool to enjoy a few pints at the end of the bar.

Walking out the back of the pub, I stopped off briefly at the gents, which is pretty much an outside toilet but is well maintained and very fresh. After this I headed up the steps to explore the outside space and discovered a small, but well-formed terraced area which enjoys excellent views of the ruined church next door and is in turn itself overlooked by all the tall buildings surrounding it.

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When I returned, the cellar trapdoor in the dining room was wedged open but roped off so the barman could change a cask – lovely to see another facet of a great old pub which has clearly operated in much the same way for hundreds of years. In case you were wondering, drinkers in the front bar needing to visit the loo are allowed to cut through the bar when a beer is being changed.

In summary, I conclude this is indeed the best pub in Dover, it was the best Sunday roast I’ve been served in Kent and, according to Mrs SD, who was keen to try my meat, the best roast beef she’s ever tasted.

The vast majority of customers were here for Sunday lunch but there was still room for one fellow who just wanted a stool at the corner of the bar for a few pints

The trapdoor to the cellar is positioned in the floor of the dining room

This is the outdoor terrace at the back of the pub, which I'm reliably informed is a real sun-trap in the summer — This is the outdoor terrace at the back of the pub, which I’m reliably informed is a real sun-trap in the summer

These are the steps back down to the pub from the garden area at the back, take it easy if you've had a few! — These are the steps back down to the pub from the garden area at the back, take it easy if you’ve had a few!

WHITE HORSE, ST JAMES STREET, DOVER CT16 1QF

Décor: A proper, old town pub with plenty of history that, fortunately, hasn’t been over-modernised. The channel swim history plastered across the walls makes this a unique venue well worth visiting. ****

Drink: The Harvey’s was very well kept and the IPA was a decent, if expensive, second option but it would have been good to have another draught ale. The wine was excellent, particularly for the price tag. ****

Food: Unbelievably good, even the glowing reports didn’t do full justice to the quality of the Sunday roast. All the food I saw coming out of the kitchen looked equally good and Mrs SD was mightily impressed too. *****

Price: I’m sure you’ll find cheaper in Dover, but not better value. Roast beef was £20, scampi £16, a Sussex Best was reasonable at £5.50 and Mrs SD’s large wine cheap at £7.70, however, an Alpacalypse IPA was dear at £7.50. ****

Staff: There were three guys sharing duties behind the bar and serving food to diners. They were all knowledgeable, friendly and upbeat. They were working hard and it was clear they enjoy what they do. *****