Located in the former Coal Shed premises on Boyce’s Street in the Lanes, Crazy Goose is a gastropub concept that comes from Black Rock Restaurants, an independent Brighton-based operator that runs some of the strongest restaurant brands in the city including the aforementioned steak-led restaurant, Tutto, Burnt Orange and The Salt Room.
Black Rock has delivered consistently in the city since way back in 2011 when the original Coal Shed opened. In a nutshell, the venues each have their own identity and distinct menus but share the same passion for great service, cooking and beautiful interiors.
If I’m honest, Crazy Goose doesn’t feel particularly ‘pubby’, despite the beautiful marble-topped bar with stools and small but well-chosen range of draft beers including Guinness and their own in-house IPA on tap.
I think due to the furniture – particularly the bentwood back chairs – that the vibe I got was a little more bistro than boozer but it’s undoubtedly a laid-back environment and once a loyal following has been achieved then regulars will know you can pop in for a pint or G&T without having to order food… although the daily bar snacks on the blackboard will undoubtedly tempt.
I invited my Argus colleague Steve ‘the committed eater’ along for a natter. Our typical quaffing choices are very different with me to be found drinking martinis in a hotel bar and Steve more likely to be padding around a sticky carpet in a back street watering hole. Thankfully as we pulled up seats at one of the high tables in the window, we found both of our wants could be accommodated so Steve ordered a pint of Guinness – which I thought was well-priced at £6.50 in the heart of the Lanes – whilst I sipped on a perfectly made Ramsbury vodka martini for £12 which is standard in Brighton for this quality of drink.
And so to the menu; ten starters – which would also make decent snacking plates – followed by eight mains plus sides. The separate dessert menu offers four choices. The menu is quite meat and fish heavy with – surprisingly for Brighton – options for vegans in particular very limited, but there are plenty of gluten-free options so I was a happy bunny with an even happier tummy.
To start we shared a plate of three devilled eggs – a playful twist on classic coronation flavours with a cheeky surprise of a dollop of mango chutney tucked underneath. At £6 that was the entry-level starter and worth every penny. In the interests of research we also opted for the most expensive starter – a trio of roasted Scottish scallops at £18. It’s a cliché to say this kind of shellfish is juicy but it definitely was, complete with flavoursome plump roe still attached. Topped with a wafer-thin pancetta crisp and a cheeky silver skin onion over a lightly spiced rich gravy with morsels of pancetta and chorizo, this is definitely a contender on my top ten 2026 dishes. The presentation was also utterly stunning.
For main, I ordered the lemon sole meunière with samphire, capers and a gorgeous brown butter sauce. A hearty portion at £26, I think you’d struggle to find fresh fish like this anywhere else in the city at this price point. My only tiny criticism is that I like to be in control of how much lemon I add to fish when it’s served simply like this rather than being presented by the chef’s fait accompli. I’ll bear that in mind to mention to my server on my next visit as I’ll undoubtedly order the same delicious dish.
For his main, Steve chose the ribeye steak with peppercorn sauce and triple cooked chips at £28. A really decent cut, it was a perfect medium with flamed charring adding a slightly crisp, Bovril-like flavour and texture. The rendered fat melted in the mouth. Accompanied by a portion of proper chips included in the price, it certainly impressed Steve who munched away with subconscious little grunts of bestial pleasure. Dessert was a shared crème brûlée – a faultless example of this classic dish with plenty of vanilla and a caramelised sugar crust.
None of the dishes are overly complex – it is meant to be quality pub food after all – and the ingredients definitely do the talking but it is the execution that impresses: it’s genuinely head and shoulders over anything similar in the city. I feel I’ve effused somewhat in this review but I mean every word; Crazy Goose really blew me away.
If you’d like to sample Crazy Goose then they are running a set menu every day from noon to 5pm with two courses for £20 or three for £24.
Crazy Goose, 8 Boyce’s Street, Brighton BN1 1AN
01273 929 079 • www.thecrazygoose.co.uk
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