It grew from a fishing village into a health spa for wealthy aristocrats – and a playground by the sea for the Prince Regent, later King George IV, who created the spectacular ‘vision in a dream’ Royal Pavilion here.
Jane Austen had her heroine Lydia Bennet famously run off to Brighton in Pride and Prejudice, dreaming of adventure and romance, and she based her fictional seaside resort Sanditon on the real one, echoing its rise to fame in her unfinished titular novel, published posthumously in 1817.
The arrival of the railway in 1840 meant that Brighton exploded in popularity. With the addition of the West Pier in 1866 and Palace Pier in 1899, along with the oldest aquarium in the world, Brighton was soon the place to be seen and take in lungfuls of its cure-all fresh, salty air.
Fast forward more than 125 years and still boasting the historic pier with its striped Helter Skelter, Grade 1-listed Pavilion, Pride and a penchant for the bohemian, this seaside city is one of the best and happiest places to live.
Known by some as London by Sea and now incorporating Hove into its title, the city made it into the Sunday Times Best Places to Live List 2022, and has just been named one of the happiest in the world.
It surpassed London, Manchester and Edinburgh to be the UK’s happiest city and clinched the 11th spot globally, missing out to Abu Dhabi as the world’s happiest, followed by Medellín, Cape Town, Mexico City, and Mumbai.
More than 18,000 people took part in the Time Out survey to gauge their shared happiness, quality of life and joy in everyday experiences in cities around the world. Factors including culture, food, walkability, affordability, nightlife and overall quality were scored along with questions on whether their city made them feel happy.
Palace Pier is the only pier left standing out of the original three built. (Image: Getty)
No doubt Brighton’s thriving arts and culinary scene, open-minded community, cutting-edge culture as well as a large LGBTQ+ population – and fabulous fish-and-chips on the seafront – helped.
In fact, the city is so joyous that it’s even been names as one of the happiest places in the UK for dogs. It came top when it came to looking after their four-legged friends’ health, and giving them a quiet, safe space to retreat to, and 13th overall, according to Dogs Trust who partnered with Mark Rowlands, author of The Happiness of Dogs and a Professor of Philosophy with a doctorate from Oxford University.
Though it is one unified city, locals insist that Brighton & Hove, as it has been known officially since 1997, has two distinct personality and looks. Genteel Hove is home to its own Millionaire’s Row with celebrity residents, boutiques, independent cafes and has dark green railings. Brighton is the louder, look-at-me bigger sister with turquoise railings and a kiss-me-quick attitude.
There is a packed calendar of events held every year including the titular Festival, Fringe, Kite Festival, Carnival and Pride among others. But in a city this happy, you can always make your own entertainment. From walking your (very happy) dog along the beach, to eating fish and chips on the beach, you can tour the Royal Pavilion or try the Helter Skelter on the Palace Pier then ride the dodgems or carousel horses for some old-fashioned ‘oh-i-do-like-to-be-beside-the-seaside’ fun.
FOOD AND DRINK
Brighton & Hove’s foodie scene is a smorgasbord of delights including celebrity eateries, gastro pubs, fine dining chains and delicious street food.
MasterChef: The Professionals champion Seven Edward runs the 3AA Rosette-awarded etch. in Hove which was given a Michelin Specials mention in the Michelin Guide last year while small plates and handmade pasta are on the menu at neighbouring Italian Cin Cin which has retained its Michelin Big Gourmand for the eighth year running.
Duncan Ray is chef patron of The Little Fish Market in Hove, which has 3AA Rosettes and MasterChef 2018 champion Kenny Tutt serves up pub grub at Ox Block in The Lord Nelson Inn, in Trafalgar Square, serving up devils on horseback (dates wrapped in bacon), with quail’s eggs, High steaks, Gunpowder chicken and deep-fried Oreo.
Furna, Dilsk, 64 Degrees, and The Salt Rooms are all on every foodie’s dining bucket list as is The Chilli Pickle while celeb hunters will love the art deco surroundings of the The Ivy in the Lanes which has spicy sister restaurant Ivy Asia next door.
If you want to eschew the food, and just head out for drinks, Brighton has an amazing choice of bars. Burnt Orange, in Middle Street, is owned by the Salt Room and Coal Shed restaurateur Razak Helalat, and serves lip-smackingly good cocktails – including martinis with olives and grilled orange skin – day and night.
The Lanes in Brighton are tiny but packed with shops. (Image: Getty)
SHOPPING
Everyone comes to Brighton for a shopping experience like no other down the North Laine and through the famous Lanes. Meander through North Laine, the city’s former industrial area, and you’ll discover independent shops galore along with the fleamarket Snoopers Paradise.
The Lanes are in the former fishing village part of the city and comes complete with twittens and cobbled alleyways. You’ll find everything from antiques and jewellery here. For High Street favourites head to Churchill Square Shopping Centre while North Street is the location of designer discount favourite TK Maxx where you’ll find everything from Amanda Wakely to Gucci and Missoni at bargain prices. Norman Cook at his For High Hove seafront home. Picture by Jim Holden
Cate Blanchett once lived in Hove (Image: Kew)
FAMOUS FACES
Just like London, Brighton & Hove has been home to everyone who’s anyone over the years – and there are plenty of blue plagues to prove it. Screen and stage legends including Laurence Olivier, Joan Plowright, Flora Robson and The Cheeky Chappie comedian Max Miller all had homes here.
Hove’s Western Esplanade, known as Millionaire’s Row, is like cat knip to stars including Paul McCartney, Adele, Cate Blanchett, David Walliams, Zoe Ball, Peter Andre and Norman Cook – aka Fatboy Slim – all having lived here.
Former Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill went to school here, attending The Misses Thompson’s Prep in Hove and Howard Blake, who composed Walking In The Air for The Snowman, went to Brighton Grammar School.
Jack the Ripper – suspected to be surgeon Robert Donston Stephenson – is said to have planned his murders in The Cricketers pub on Black Lion Street in The Lanes before travelling to London to carry out the crimes. Author Graham Green wrote Brighton Rock in the room upstairs, which is now named the Green Room and is available to hire for private functions. The royal Pavilion was a lavish seaside retreat for the King (C) Getty
The Royal Pavilion was the fantasty plaground by the sea for a king. 138014829 (Image: Getty)
MUST SEE
Indulge in a few hours of Regency splendour inside the fantasy palace fit for a king. Built by John Nash, the iconic Royal Pavilion was the Prince Regent’s – later King George IV – ostentatious seaside party pad, a whirl of minarets, domes and mock Mogul detailing. Take a tour and peek at the dragon festooned music room, decadent royal bedroom, and lavish banqueting room.
Queen Victoria’s visited on plenty of occasions between 1837 and 184 but complained it was an ‘odd place’ and only had sea views from some of the rooms. Her lumpy looking bed with its tier of six mattresses is on show but the fully restored Regency gardens. £14.74 for resident adults, £19.50 for non-resident adults, brightonmuseums.org.uk/visit/royal-pavilion-garden/
MUST DO
Go for a very genteel afternoon tea at Stanmer House, a Georgian manor house in historic Stanmer Park set in the midst of stunning gardens. While many families and groups of friends flock to this Bridgerton-style venue for a traditional Sunday Roast, the afternoon tea is a very refined affair. Tuck into dainty sandwiches, scones and cakes, with a choice of loose leaf teas before taking a peek around the house which was built in 1722. It has been beautifully restored as has the gardens, which has a walled garden and a rose garden to explore. The house is one of the region’s most popular venues for weddings, parties, baby showers and corporate events. stanmerhouse.uk
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