With amazing architecture and floating saunas, Oslo oozes Nordic cool, says Judith Baker
The Norwegian capital, situated between the mountains and the sea, has always had a distinctive allure of Scandi style, and an essential part of that is its architecture and design. One of Oslo’s most exciting recent hotel openings is Sommerro, housed in the former headquarters of Oslo Lysverker, the city’s electrical company and a 1930s landmark.
The city has such a wealth of dramatic buildings, it’s worth spending a weekend just walking around and gawping at them
The Art Deco building has stunning murals, elegant period décor and the city’s only rooftop pool. Found in the fashionable Frognal district of the capital, there is a dramatic wrought iron staircase and huge murals by artist Per Krohg in the main hall, as well as a feature wall in the basement public baths. The interior design is by GrecoDeco, the team behind The Ned in London.
Read more: Why a cruise to the Norwegian Fjords is a journey through time
It might be the chilliest of mornings along Oslo’s fjord side promenade, but the locals are used to it. There are plenty of people enjoying a stroll and a coffee, and others jumping into the freezing water (about 9 degrees). They have just emerged from the KOK floating wood burning sauna so getting cold may be more appealing, but only just. The locals extol the benefits of saunas and pre-work cold water dips and visitors are encouraged to join in.
Walking away from the harbour I crossed into the vibrant Bjorvika district, formerly the old container port and now reimagined as home to the Barcode – an area consisting of 12 tall, thin buildings. As well as an interesting and controversial architectural concept, Barcode is home to shops, restaurants and galleries as well as one of the largest bars in the city.
Along the waterfront in the Tjuvholmen neighbourhood is the avant-garde Astrup Fearnley museum. The area is known for its lively restaurants along the boardwalk and the Nobel Peace Centre, which tells stories about Alfred Nobel and the Peace Prize. Or you can take to the water and cruise around the fjord, passing islands and the peninsula of Bygdoy, home to the Fram Museum, housing the polar ship of the same name.
The city has such a wealth of dramatic buildings, it’s worth spending a weekend just walking around and gawping at them. Oslo’s Opera House is designed to look like a glacier rising out of the fjord. You can walk on top of the marble roof to get great views of the ever-changing city. The Opera House opened in 2008 and marked the start of a new era for Oslo and the regeneration of its waterfront.
The Munch museum opened in October 2021 to display the collection that expressionist painter Edvard Munch bequeathed to the city, although his most famous work The Scream is actually in the National Museum. The building is a stunning 60 metre high tower, clad in recycled aluminium. You can’t miss Tracey Emin’s bronze sculpture in front of the Munch museum. The Mother is an impressive 29ft-tall female nude.
But Oslo is not just about shiny futuristic buildings.
The city has a lovely 17th century cathedral with cafes and shops in the surrounding cloisters to get lost in. There are worse places to relax with a glass of something after a long day’s architecture snooping.
Visit Oslo yourself
Norse Atlantic Airways (flynorse.com) and British Airways fly to Oslo from London Gatwick and London Heathrow respectively. Rates at Sommerro, a member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts’ prestigious Legend Collection, start from £225 per double room including breakfast. For more information, visit preferredhotels.com and visitoslo.com
