Wales has a viticultural scene that is exploding right now. Adam Bloodworth meets the makers
Behind the counter of hipster Abergavenny coffee shop Bean & Bread, bottles of natural wine with funky labels are lined up like artworks. The cafe supports local suppliers but a quick look at the wine labels reveals that (spoiler) absolutely no Welsh people were involved in their making.
No surprises there, surely: the good people of Abergavenny are hardly blessed with Provence’s predictable heat – this is the Brecon Beacons, for Christ’s sake.
But the land of dragons now boasts over 30 wineries. Gavin and Nessa could cheers with the local plonk if they reunite for another series of Gavin and Stacey… And it’s good. The pinot noir from the White Castle Vineyard recently beat Californian and French varieties at the Decanter Awards to take home the Gold prize, which was great for Wales and rather embarrassing for the viticultural traditionalists of the Old World.
Abergavenny is the focal point for an exploration of the best Welsh wine
Abergavenny – where I focused my exploration – is being touted as the hipster capital of Wales, and one of the centres of wine tourism. The town was recently voted the best place to live in the country by The Times, and Wales Online is waxing lyrical about how ‘middle class’ it is.
But this is still Wales. Arriving by train on a cold summer’s night, the mist hanging over the station felt so close I wondered if there was any air left to breathe. Lamps illuminated the curls of vapour, and occasionally the fractures of the craggy Brecon Beacons came into view, disrupting the dense white night. Somewhere out there was the vastness of the mountains, but more immediately it felt like we’d arrived at an immersive theatre production about a Victorian train murder.
A short walk away there was a similar vibe at The Angel hotel, where I had checked in to join one of their Vineyard Breaks. A large 17th century building in the town centre, you can imagine people would have travelled here to lunch from miles in all directions. (They still do: it’s still the fanciest place around to put on a shirt and go for a slap-up meal.) It has an austere facade softened by an LGBTQ flag that signals to the town’s progressive values.
Read more: Elvis’ brother still lives in The King’s Las Vegas hotel. We met him.
Outside The Angel gives off a Dickens vibe, but inside it’s flatly 21st century: comfy sofas, bright reading rooms and an exciting range of independent beers behind the bar. My bedroom was decently sized and had a very comfortable bed. A taxi ride away in the village of Llanvetherine, ex Royal Mail worker Robb Merchant and his retired nurse wife Nicola of White Castle Vineyard are exactly the duo you want to introduce you to Welsh wine.
Merchant walks me through their 7,000 vines, past a selection that has been bought by the vineyard’s most loyal fans with plaques bearing the names of proud owners on each vine. People are taking selfies with their vines around me, probably bought by spouses as an unusual anniversary present or a big birthday. (Very importantly, they get to drink the wine when it’s harvested.)
Merchant has a thick Welsh accent and the broadest smile you’ve ever seen. After the tour, Nicola welcomes you onto the vineyard’s sun-facing terrace as if you were friends of the family to drink that quaffable pinot noir and hear about how red wine can work on these shores. They had the capital, but you need more than that: hearing Merchant talk, he’s got the drive and charisma too.
Read more: Williamsburg, once a Mecca for hipsters, is now a luxury hub
Younger folk are getting their grape-squashing boots on. Also in Monmouthshire is the village of Raglan, where newly-opened Younger folk are getting their grape-squashing boots on. Also in Monmouthshire is the village of Raglan, where newly-opened The Dell Vineyard is signalling towards the future. The Alford family has farmed the land for five generations, but the latest generation, Dan and his wife Lucy, convinced the family to trust in Welsh wine.
They planted vines of pinot noir and solaris and are already winning awards. Over a bottle of their Welsh Wine Awards-winning rose, we chatted about changing up the industry. How? By organising monthly mini-festivals on the vineyard’s handsome hills so you can turn up, pop a bottle and enjoy it with local street food. This summer there are events with oyster suppliers, cheese merchants and “Beefy Boys” burgers. With dollops more of that Welsh spirit, they loaded us up with bottles to take home.
Monmouthshire is a spectacular county with a varied landscape, incorporating some of the biggest highlights of natural Wales, including the Brecon Beacons and Wye Valley. Also not to miss is the Parva Farm Vineyard, on the slopes above Tintern with its Abbey and riverside walks. For the second night we moved up the road to The Angel’s Lodge Cottage within the grounds of Abergavenny Castle. The Castle grounds close at dusk and there’s a perverse pleasure in running amok around the famous building out of hours; we picnicked on the lawn and pretended the whole thousand-year-old ruins were our private back garden.
Welsh wine is still largely a secret. Even Abergavenny, worth a weekend visit alone for its handsome bakeries and vintage clothing shops backdropped by meadows rolling towards mountains, doesn’t seem in on the secret. So keep this one under your hat. (Along with a bottle of that pinot noir, naturally.)
Visit Wales to explore the vineyards
The Angel runs White Castle Vineyard Breaks which includes a two-night stay, dinner in the hotel, a tour of the vineyard with four wines to taste and a bottle of wine to take away. It is £654 based on two guests sharing. To plan a visit go to visitmonmouthshire.com
Read more: Going deeper than ever into Vietnam’s enticing food scene
