Every January, I hang my head in shame. As a business leader who has spent almost three decades championing the finest beverages and hospitality, I must admit I am in no small part responsible for the abomination which is Seedlip, the crown jewel of the no alcohol movement, forced down your throat each “Dry January”.
My intentions were noble: I tried to help a fellow entrepreneur. I’d just opened my first M restaurant in Threadneedle Street and a young farmer named Ben Branson asked for my help selling his botanical water, which makes tonic taste marginally like a gin and tonic, but not really.
Choosing the name for the brand was a collaborative responsibility in which I participated (and in fairness, the label and brand name are the best bits of Seedlip), but it was my introduction to Distill Ventures – the Diageo beverage giants’ incubator fund that supports start-ups – that changed the herby water into a back-bar staple and global phenomenon.
Distill has had numerous successes and plays a great role in developing young entrepreneurs, so I am happy it worked out; Ben made millions as the brand expanded. What I feel the need to apologise for, however, is my inadvertent championing of Dry January.
So I will now do my penance by writing about where to eat this month. I’ll start with two London Bouchons, both offering Lyonnaise bistro levels of offal and secondary cuts along with affordable wines and tables too close together.
JOSEPHINE BOUCHON
Claude Bosi’s Josephine Bouchon is certainly worth a trip to Chelsea; my favourite course was roast guinea fowl in a langoustine cream, accompanied by a 2022 Schaller Burgundy (£53). As an aside, Claude shares a love with Heston Blumenthal and I of Tom Davies’ bespoke eyewear, another exceptional London-based entrepreneur.
BOUCHON RACINE
In the heart of the City sits chef Henry Harris and Dave Strauss’s Bouchon Racine, where I dived into brains and beyond. Henry’s andouillette is the best, but is not for the faint hearted.
These two London bouchons were so inspiring that I embarked upon a day trip to Paris. The 8am Eurostar became much more palatable with the assistance of Pommery Cuvee Louise. On arrival we headed to La Closerie des Lilas for shellfish and Ruinart Rose, followed by a stroll through the Jardin de Luxembourg to Restaurant au Moulin a Vent.
At a table there, sitting in the shadow of the Sabonne, I indulged in more Bouchon fare and took a masterclass in Chartreuse, a magnificent herbal spirit that’s as rare as Guinness in December. And with much more vim than Seedlip. I had a nice day – but my trip below the North Sea only confirmed my belief that our capital has the best food and drink in the world, Dry January be damned.
NAME DROP OF THE WEEK: PETER REID
Peter Reid, the former Everton and England player – and, more importantly, Sunderland manager – became a good friend when I opened Gaucho Liverpool in 2022. This friendship has led to some galavanting, including a ‘pinch yourself’ moment dining with Reidy, Ian Rush, Kenny Dalglish and Andy Hart. Last week I took a trip up to my childhood club Sunderland with him to watch a victory against Portsmouth from the directors’ box.
